October 4, 2017
December 23, 2010
The Xi'an Pickpocket
He stands. He studies. He waits.
His hands buried into his thin, black jacket pockets as he scans the crowd of cattle mooing and herding onto the local bus outside of the Xi'an train station. Mostly his own people, he looks past them trying to find unsuspecting victims, overwhelmed by the hazy sky and dirty terrain. Enter us.
High off of getting through the rigors of buying train tickets; a simple task, we would have taken for granted in Japan, we cheerfully run across traffic to the bus-stop/knickknack chain on the other side of the street. Parched and happy to be done with the day's task, I buy a couple of waters and stuff the remaining cash into my wallet, and then into my cargo pocket. I button the pocket.
He studies. He waits.
We see our bus approaching and the race begins. People, like groundhog zombies, seem to multiply and then appear from inside the shop walls and under the sidewalk concrete. They surround us vying for an invaluable seat on the over-crowded bus and all of a sudden we are completely engulfed in a mob of Chinese travelers.
"This is crazy," I say in a low voice to Paul.
"Yeah, but it's pretty normal," he responds.
"It's like we're being herded into a human corral."
We push and shove our way onto the bus and somehow find two seats next to one-another. Paul sits on the inside and I on the outside. People file in until all the seats are taken and the isles are filled to maximum capacity. Every now and again, someone shoves his/her way to the doors to exit, which causes a ripple of movement in the crowded mob. Paul & I begin what turns into one of our many compelling conversations.
"It's like, if we were in Japan, there would probably be an employee getting paid by the government to usher everyone into the correct line and cut off those who would breach the max capacity of the bus, you know?"
"Definitely," Paul concurs. "There's just so many people that live here. Chaos is the only way they know how to live."
"I know, it's this idea of obeying big brother unquestionably that really bugs me out. There are cameras on the subway, police getting trained on the sidewalks of big streets as an obvious display to the public and just.. so many things that lend themselves to the opposite of Western thinking."
"Yeah."
We both pause briefly and take in the reality of this world. Then I break the silence.
"So you've lived here for a year now, do you see the affect on the individuals in this society? I mean, have you been able to observe their reactions, or do they all just accept it blindly?"
Paul thinks about this long and intently.
"Well, I think most people that don't travel or care to expand their thinking, probably do fall into a habit of accepting the status quo. But that also applies to probably any modern society, don't you think?"
"Yeah, definitely," I answer.
"The people I think it effects most are the bottom feeders who are poor or scraping to get by. The way society is organized does not adhere to their needs. And since they are the bottom feeders, they're probably the ones that question the rules and regulations the most. So in essence, the one's who question society are seen by the system as outcasts. Now imagine what this does to those people; they struggle and rebel against the system. This makes them subjugated, which ultimately feeds into the circle of the uncompromising system. In this regard, it's not terribly different from any other modern society."
We sit in silence and think.
We reach our stop and get off. Our next destination is a phone store in order to put more minutes on Paul's phone. My thoughts still hover around the "bottom feeders" in our discussion and out of pure instinct I check my wallet in my side pocket. My button is undone and wallet, gone. I double check every pocket in my pants and a mounting, frantic state looms over me like a dark and heavy rainstorm approaching. I clearly remember buttoning my cargo pocket after putting my wallet inside. My empty hands grasp nothing and control slips away like the reigns dangling from their galloping mare.
I stand frozen, beaten.
Then like a fierce, five fingered slap to the face, I snap into action.
"I'm going back to the hostel. I've gotta cancel my cards."
"Are you sure you remember how to get there" Paul concernedly asks.
"Yeah, I'll meet you back there."
180 degrees later, my brisk pace turns into a slight jog, and then a sprint. My mind whirls with the possibility of my enemy charging a new pair of shoes or his family's new wardrobe for the next year to any one of my three cards. He could talk to a guy he knows who specializes in identity theft. He could sell the cards to his friends and they could go on a shopping spree. Shoes and jewelery for everyone!
What's in my wallet? Fortunately not much cash but unfortunately all three credit cards. What else? My feet try to keep pace with my thoughts but my heart pumps with a strong and steady first place lead.
Shit! My foreign ID card. It's gone. THAT is the most important thing there. Without it, I could never receive the pension that the Japanese government owes me for the last three years of teaching in Japan. Japanese rules and regulations are upheld so rigidly that this could easily be a reality. So instead of stealing 250 RMB and a few credit cards to be canceled within the next 10 minutes, he may have now taken my $7,500 nest egg. Anxiety sprints past all else into first place, which only motivates my heart, mind and feet to race faster.
I get to my hostel, dripping with the damp, humid anxiety that only being robbed can persuade. I find my way to the computers and all three are being occupied. I stand. I drip. I wait.
Finally one opens up and I jump on. I cancel all three cards immediately and begin the process of calling each company to report a stolen card and find out if anything else has been purchased.
I discover that I'm one of the lucky ones. None of the cards were used. Now, I write an email to my supervisor in Japan asking if there's any way to still receive my pension with out my "Gaigin Card." I sit. I wait. Only time will tell. That bastard.
His hands buried into his thin, black jacket pockets as he scans the crowd of cattle mooing and herding onto the local bus outside of the Xi'an train station. Mostly his own people, he looks past them trying to find unsuspecting victims, overwhelmed by the hazy sky and dirty terrain. Enter us.
High off of getting through the rigors of buying train tickets; a simple task, we would have taken for granted in Japan, we cheerfully run across traffic to the bus-stop/knickknack chain on the other side of the street. Parched and happy to be done with the day's task, I buy a couple of waters and stuff the remaining cash into my wallet, and then into my cargo pocket. I button the pocket.
He studies. He waits.
We see our bus approaching and the race begins. People, like groundhog zombies, seem to multiply and then appear from inside the shop walls and under the sidewalk concrete. They surround us vying for an invaluable seat on the over-crowded bus and all of a sudden we are completely engulfed in a mob of Chinese travelers.
"This is crazy," I say in a low voice to Paul.
"Yeah, but it's pretty normal," he responds.
"It's like we're being herded into a human corral."
We push and shove our way onto the bus and somehow find two seats next to one-another. Paul sits on the inside and I on the outside. People file in until all the seats are taken and the isles are filled to maximum capacity. Every now and again, someone shoves his/her way to the doors to exit, which causes a ripple of movement in the crowded mob. Paul & I begin what turns into one of our many compelling conversations.
"It's like, if we were in Japan, there would probably be an employee getting paid by the government to usher everyone into the correct line and cut off those who would breach the max capacity of the bus, you know?"
"Definitely," Paul concurs. "There's just so many people that live here. Chaos is the only way they know how to live."
"I know, it's this idea of obeying big brother unquestionably that really bugs me out. There are cameras on the subway, police getting trained on the sidewalks of big streets as an obvious display to the public and just.. so many things that lend themselves to the opposite of Western thinking."
"Yeah."
We both pause briefly and take in the reality of this world. Then I break the silence.
"So you've lived here for a year now, do you see the affect on the individuals in this society? I mean, have you been able to observe their reactions, or do they all just accept it blindly?"
Paul thinks about this long and intently.
"Well, I think most people that don't travel or care to expand their thinking, probably do fall into a habit of accepting the status quo. But that also applies to probably any modern society, don't you think?"
"Yeah, definitely," I answer.
"The people I think it effects most are the bottom feeders who are poor or scraping to get by. The way society is organized does not adhere to their needs. And since they are the bottom feeders, they're probably the ones that question the rules and regulations the most. So in essence, the one's who question society are seen by the system as outcasts. Now imagine what this does to those people; they struggle and rebel against the system. This makes them subjugated, which ultimately feeds into the circle of the uncompromising system. In this regard, it's not terribly different from any other modern society."
We sit in silence and think.
We reach our stop and get off. Our next destination is a phone store in order to put more minutes on Paul's phone. My thoughts still hover around the "bottom feeders" in our discussion and out of pure instinct I check my wallet in my side pocket. My button is undone and wallet, gone. I double check every pocket in my pants and a mounting, frantic state looms over me like a dark and heavy rainstorm approaching. I clearly remember buttoning my cargo pocket after putting my wallet inside. My empty hands grasp nothing and control slips away like the reigns dangling from their galloping mare.
I stand frozen, beaten.
Then like a fierce, five fingered slap to the face, I snap into action.
"I'm going back to the hostel. I've gotta cancel my cards."
"Are you sure you remember how to get there" Paul concernedly asks.
"Yeah, I'll meet you back there."
180 degrees later, my brisk pace turns into a slight jog, and then a sprint. My mind whirls with the possibility of my enemy charging a new pair of shoes or his family's new wardrobe for the next year to any one of my three cards. He could talk to a guy he knows who specializes in identity theft. He could sell the cards to his friends and they could go on a shopping spree. Shoes and jewelery for everyone!
What's in my wallet? Fortunately not much cash but unfortunately all three credit cards. What else? My feet try to keep pace with my thoughts but my heart pumps with a strong and steady first place lead.
Shit! My foreign ID card. It's gone. THAT is the most important thing there. Without it, I could never receive the pension that the Japanese government owes me for the last three years of teaching in Japan. Japanese rules and regulations are upheld so rigidly that this could easily be a reality. So instead of stealing 250 RMB and a few credit cards to be canceled within the next 10 minutes, he may have now taken my $7,500 nest egg. Anxiety sprints past all else into first place, which only motivates my heart, mind and feet to race faster.
I get to my hostel, dripping with the damp, humid anxiety that only being robbed can persuade. I find my way to the computers and all three are being occupied. I stand. I drip. I wait.
Finally one opens up and I jump on. I cancel all three cards immediately and begin the process of calling each company to report a stolen card and find out if anything else has been purchased.
I discover that I'm one of the lucky ones. None of the cards were used. Now, I write an email to my supervisor in Japan asking if there's any way to still receive my pension with out my "Gaigin Card." I sit. I wait. Only time will tell. That bastard.
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